12/28/2022 0 Comments Hilti anchors for rock![]() Be aware of the other problem that happens when bolting quickly top-to-bottom. Hopefully, he meant the gel time is 20 minutes. This means you have even less time, maybe 5 minutes, before the glue stiffens enough in the mixer that you'll have trouble pumping it out. ![]() John Byrnes wrote: Is the cure time 20 minutes or the gel time? If the cure time is 20 minutes, the gel time is probably half that. If you decide to use it, I'd be interested in your experiences using the HY-70. Bumping a bolt with the rope before the glue is fully set causes the bolt to be off-plumb, and puts undesirable torque on it during a fall. Having to clip intermediates on steep routes exacerbates this issue (and slows you down too). As I've mentioned before, if the route wanders any at all and the bolts are not all on one side of your working rope, then your weighted rope can bump the bolt(s) you just glued as you rap/swing to the next placement. Hopefully, he meant the gel time is 20 minutes.īe aware of the other problem that happens when bolting quickly top-to-bottom. The contractor I mentioned in previous post regularly has surplus from large projects that he is willing to unload for next to nothing.Is the cure time 20 minutes or the gel time? If the cure time is 20 minutes, the gel time is probably half that. Other than working time I see no reason not to use it. This could be mitigated to some degree with an efficient work strategy, whereby all holes are predrilled and cleaned and then all bolts on a route are glued in one go from top to bottom. The main drawback is that cure time is extremely rapid in tropical climates (20 mins at 85 degrees F). The HY-70 is epoxy based and is specifically designed for rock. Use a two-part pure epoxy or epoxyacrylate like the Redhead Epcon A7, Hilti 500, Hilti 150, Simpson SET22 or Powers Pure 110+.Ĭashmab wrote:I called Hilti tech support and they actually recommend HY-70 over all their other mortars (even over RE-500 series) for installations in rock, and this was after I told them that the specific application was Titanium and stainless rock climbing anchors. Personally, I would never use any type of concrete to place glue-ins. It seems someone bought a case of the real stuff, also bought a case of silicone, and then returned the silicone but with the SET22 stickers on the epoxy in order to defraud Home Depot. I walked into Home Depot once and found an entire case of "SET 22"-labeled containers that were not epoxy but in fact silicone!! I called Simpson and they said they dont even make silicone and they launched an investigation. Just make sure you're actually buying epoxy. In any case, EDOT is still more than strong enough. EDOT is more of a general purpose epoxy for gluing in rebar into concrete for freeway use, where SET22 is more specific to high strength applications. Simpson's EDOT might still be grey, and I suspect it would work fine. ![]() It's no longer grey though, they changed the color to dark green. If using Simpson, use the SET-XP or SET22 (Same stuff, just different size cartridge). Maybe you are concerned with voids in limestone? My opinion is to move the bolt anyway since you can't determine how strong the rock is without X-ray vision. Also, I'm guessing it's a "binding mortar", and having used several of these, I prefer the "epoxy" glues. I say be wary of using HIT-HY 70 for the simple reason no one else has used it for rock anchors to my knowledge. I've done it the other way too(two passes), so I know. The RE-500 gels slowly enough that I can work (placements previously marked) from the bottom up, drilling/cleaning/bolting/jugging in one pass, without rushing. What they don't tell you is that it fades to an inconspicuous dull rose color after a year. The color makes it easy to see what you're doing, spot voids, etc. Some people don't like the color (hot pink) but I do. Some people think it's hard to work with because it sticks to everything (a good characteristic if you ask me). It has a solid track record as a rock bolt glue in Europe, Thailand, Cayman Brac, Brazil, etc. If you're gonna go Hilti, a good decision, I recommend the RE-500. Have you ever used glue-ins? What do you use? I've placed 500 (more?) glue-ins and have used a variety of glues over 15 years. According to Hilti it is for use with hollow base, OR SOLID, and grouted concrete. Brian wrote: There is no Hilti glue that specifically says for rock climbing anchors.
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